I find the mods needed to use FP with mod_rewrite to be pretty simple and easy to live with. I described them at
http://25yearsofprogramming.com/blog/20061231.htm. Once applied, they don't need to be reapplied unless you have to uninstall and reinstall the FP extensions.
If you're really fed up, though...
My basic question is: "Can you use DreamWeaver and Apache's mod_rewrite at the same time without making special modifications?"
I believe the answer is yes. The only reason FP gives trouble is because of the FPE's, and Dreamweaver doesn't have those.
To backtrack a bit, if your site is all XHTML and you don't use the FP extensions, then you could just turn them off and continue to publish with FrontPage, except do it in FTP mode, not HTTP. If you turn off the FPE's, you should have NO problems with mod_rewrite, and no mods needed.
Any advice?
If I were looking now, and cost were not a factor, I would go with Dreamweaver CS3. No, I've never used it, but based on the comments of others it has mostly all positives, and no negatives.
Expressions Web - negatives: it's geared toward ASP.NET, Sharepoint, and other Microsoft technologies that I do NOT want to be steered toward, while it (I think) ignores PHP and other things that are in the direction I want to go. I don't want to be taken down a road where one day I have to be on a Windows server because I've gotten used to features that they won't support on Linux/Apache.
Seeing as how you are doing only hand coding, though, if I were in your position I'd just keep using FrontPage in FTP mode. It's not a bad text editor.
There are some other weird possibilities I might look at, too, like Microsoft Visual C++ Express 2005. Yeah, it's a C++ editor, but it's a great text editor, has some tremendous search and replace capabilities, and it's free.
Anyway, you get the idea. When you do hand coding, you have a lot more things to choose from.